Many of our readers will have walked the Fife Coastal Path around the East Neuk. In our latest blog, we take a stroll from Anstruther to Crail – from the golfers at Anster’s picturesque course, along the harbour in the ‘home of fish & chips‘, through the fishing village of Cellardyke and its Skinfast Haven … on into open farmland, passing the ancient Chapel Cove before arriving into Crail …

Anstruther

As on many a coastal walk, it is linear, so we left one car in Crail and drove the short distance to Anstruther. The signs to the path are clear. There’s on street parking close to the start of this stretch.

The view west stretches alongside the golf course – the club formed in 1890, beginning life as seven holes. The breeze from the west carried the swishes of golfers – and an occasional cry of ‘Fore!‘ Their signature hole? The Rockies. It is seen by many in the game as the toughest par 3 in the UK – but that’s a different kind of walk that we will save for another day!

The hole gives its name to Rockies, the restaurant adjoining the golf club. The establishments (below) share a car park – and a stunning view across to Anstruther harbour.

We explained that we were walking to Crail, that we would like a bite to eat – and asked if we might leave our car there. They were very welcome and said ‘of course’.

Refueled with delicious coffee, Haggis Scotch Egg with a Pepper Sauce and Smoked Haddock & Leek Fishcake served with Pea Puree, Tartare Sauce and Lemon, we set off.

The initial steps are passed houses on the streets that lead you into the village. There’s a zig-zag over the main road (beware of the traffic as the corners are very tight) – and then down to the harbour …

Many locations will claim to serve up the best fish and chips … across Scotland and into the north of England. But Anstruther is famed for its chippies. On another day at a different time, we would definitely take time out to enjoy either the legendary Anstruther Fish Bar or the Wee Chippy! Fishes aplenty … and eastwards passing the Scottish Fisheries Museum. We have visited before and it is a great destination. As they say on their website, it is “a national institution with an international reputation” telling the story of fishing in Scotland, the boats, the people, their catches and more. The fishing village is also well known for the Reaper – the  herring drifter built over 100 years ago that was used in the cult Outlander series.

Cellardyke

Before you know it, you are entering Cellardyke – a narrow road runs parallel with the shore bounded by straggling homes of former fishermen with the occasional cut-through giving you glimpses of the Firth of Forth’s blue waters.

Formerly known as Nether Kilrenny, the fishing village has a lovely harbour first built in the 16th century – then known as Skinfast Haven – and rebuilt in the early 19th century. Walking passed this serene scene, it is hard to imagine that it once housed 200 fishing boats. Many were destroyed by a storm in 1898 after which local fishermen sought sanctuary in the larger Anstruther harbour. Today, the ‘haven’ is home to a few small creel and pleasure boats … and washing lines!

As you leave Cellardyke, you walk by East Neuk Outdoors – a centre for water-bound activities where you can hire wetsuits, paddleboards, kayaks and more. They also arrange archery and axe throwing – and it is home to East Neuk Burgers if you need sustenance for the path ahead.

All along this stretch, you can spy the Isle of May National Nature Reserve – the rocky outcrop offshore that is famed for its feathered residents, most notably the unmistakeable puffin. In the autumn, the island welcomes the largest Atlantic grey seal colony on the east of the UK.

You now enter open farmland. Please be aware of as livestock – and keep dogs under close control. Ta!

As the path wends east, you’ll see an outcrop of rock that looms larger as you approach – The Caves of Caiplie, known locally as ‘The Coves’.

The weathered sandstone is a remarkable landmark. The closer you get, the more it opens up to a collection of caves shaped by millennia of crashing waves.

Through centuries, they have had all manner of use. Pilgrims on their way to St Andrews carved crosses into the stonework as they used the caves for worship. Local farmers have sheltered livestock and, as recently as the 1939, one cave was a dwelling for a hermit (below). Credit to James Allan via Wikipedia.

Today? Local children still try to throw stones through the hole in the cliff nearest the shore as they make a wish. Go on. Give it a try … just make sure there’s no one on the other side throwing one back at you!

It is a stunning stretch of the path. Hardly a soul in sight on miles of track – alongside crystal clear waters and abandoned buildings, remnants of an old salt works, a bygone time when so many more were employed on the land and sea. A doer-upper? Surely in this day and age of ‘off grid’ tourism this beautiful location is just crying out for a restoration project to bring these ruins back to life? Kevin McCloud would be proud. George Clarke would find it truly amazing!

A climb to the headland and a detour as the old path has been washed away in places – and then Crail is in sight.

We’d timed our walk to perfection – to be back in time for an ice cream. We knew The Beehive closed at 5 … but we were just before.

NOOO! It was closed, a couple sitting outside told us the doors had just been locked. We turned our backs – hunched – and began a sad walk to the car only to hear the lady shouting after us. The owner had heard us at the door and had reopened. Saviour!

Ice creams duly bought, we headed to the car – then back to Anstruther to pick up our second set of wheels before home. A fab day on a breathtaking stretch of the East Neuk coast that we’d recommend to all.

 

Need more?

We have included links to all businesses and organisations mentioned through our Blog. Separately, if you’d like to plan a visit to the Isle of May, there are regular boat trips during the summer from Anstruther. You can find more via this link.

With thanks to Anstruther Golf Club for their warm welcome – and for the image from their Facebook page that we have used showing the course’s stunning location.

For those interested, membership of the Club opens up reciprocal benefits to enjoy playing at many other clubs. One of them, Cupar Golf Club, is the oldest nine-hole club in the world and subscribes to our sister-page, CuparNow. Recently, we shared a blog on their history and work. You can read more via this link.

 

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