Rounding the Neuk …
We are blessed with the Fife Coastal Path giving unrivaled access to the shores along the East Neuk. Despite nature’s frequent attempts to batter the beaches and cliffs, the path remains – with an occasional detour – to allow locals and visitors alike the chance to explore this amazing corner of Scotland’s coastline.
This blog covers a wee stretch – just over five miles from Kingsbarns beach – around the Neuk – and finishing in Crail.
There’s parking at Kingsbarns beach. For those on a short stroll, parking is free for up to two hours (with a ticket – at the time of writing) – and just £2 for the day.
The path is well marked from the outset – following the green, yellow and blue icon on the signs heading south. You’re heading along the coastline of the Cambo Estate. On another visit, why not park at the beach and walk up through the estate’s gardens to visit their cafe? It serves vegetarian and vegan friendly food with indoor and alfresco spread across their stables and courtyard. The cafe is dog friendly with “treats and belly rubs for good behaviour”. Their menu changes daily but centres on a choice of soups, filled sandwiches, a range of salads and sweet treats. No need to book, just drop in!
As you walk south, you’ll skirt Kingsbarns Golf Links – 1.8 miles of picturesque coastline helping to create one of the world’s very best links courses. A number of holes hug the shore and the coastal path meanders alongside the fairways and greens giving you a great view of the golfers and course (below left).
Soon the path drops to the shore – evidence of the erosion that has washed away parts of the former route ‘neath dramatic stacks of stone on the beach – before opening onto a softer landscape as golf once again comes in to play.
You are now walking alongside the courses owned and run by the Crail Golf Society. First, Balcomie: much of the course owes its layout to the masterful eye of Old Tom Morris. Open Champion, father of Young Tom, and the “Grandfather of Golf”. As you round the Neuk atFife Ness Lighthouse, you then start heading towards Crail – and alongside the second of the Society’s courses, Craighead.
You are now walking through the Scottish Wildlife Trust’s Kilminning Coast … the path cross the beaches with views across the Firth of Forth to the Isle of May and beyond.
The walk into Crail brings you through the Sauchope Links Holiday Lodge & Caravan Park. The path then drops through gardens and children’s play area to hug the shoreline through to the harbour. Again, there’s a detour as some of the cliffside is unstable, but follow the signs and you’ll soon come to Shoregate, the steep road that descends to the harbour.
Journey’s end on this section of the path was the Crail Harbour Gallery & Tearoom. The gallery is in the cellars of a 17th century fisherman’s cottage – restored to reveal original stone features including walls, flagstones and exposed beams. You can sit inside or out – we chose out. The sheltered courtyard has great views out to sea.
Their menu changes often with a great selection of homemade cakes, bakes and treats – as well as savoury snacks with soups, rolls and paninis, to eat in or take away. The coffee is very good … and the carrot and pistachio cake together with their honeycomb tiffin were truly scrumptious!
Need more?
We have linked to various places featured in our blog throughout so feel free to click to discover and read more. If you’re planning to walk any of the coastal path, check out their official website. This link takes you to the section covered here – albeit we walked only a short section (just over five miles) and in reverse from the ‘anti clockwise’ norm.
Hot recommendation …
Why not add to you experience? Kingsbarns beach is home to Wild Scottish Sauna – run by friends and business partners, Jayne McGhie and Jamie Craig-Gentles. In 2023, their shared passion for wild swimming led them to launch the luxury sauna experience – the Kingsbarns sauna shortlisted as a finalist in the ‘Best Outdoor or Adventure Experience’ category in Scotland’s regional Thistle Awards.
And they’re setting their sights on more. Jayne explains: “Scotland is blessed with thousands of miles of the most stunning coastline – much of it as remote as you can get. That really appeals.” Jamie adds: “Deliberately, our Wild Scottish Sauna is ‘off grid’. We want them in places where customers can max out the physical and mental benefits offered, so we’re exploring destinations where our unique hot/cold wellness experience can be enjoyed to the full.” The duo has established a growing business which employs nine local staff and is supported by several volunteers, all of whom share their passion for cold water swimming and sauna therapy.
The saunas appeal to locals and tourists alike, and it is easy to see why. Breathtaking. Literally.
Thanks for reading.
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